English
Taking on the challenge of cultivating "Western vegetables" on Miyakojima
Western vegetables were introduced to Japan during the Edo period. They became widely popular after the Meiji period, but even in the Reiwa era, there are many unfamiliar Western vegetables, such as fennel, chicory, and kohlrabi. One man, like a Meiji Restoration pioneer, is growing these rare Western vegetables on Miyakojima.
Ryoji Mochizuki moved from Tokyo to Miyakojima in 2014. In his 30s, he ran a community farm in Tokyo's Itabashi Ward, where he became fascinated with the joy of growing vegetables. Hoping to farm somewhere warm, he set his sights on Miyakojima, Okinawa.
His reason for focusing on Western vegetables was that he wanted to grow vegetables that were different from others. In his first year after moving, there were very few farmers on Miyakojima growing Western vegetables.
"At first, of course, I didn't have anywhere to farm. I borrowed land from an acquaintance, but I didn't know if Western vegetables would suit Miyakojima's climate and soil. It was a daily process of trial and error. I was even laughed at by the islanders."
But that's where his frontier spirit shines. Unafraid of failure, he took on the challenge and within about a year, he had figured out the environment and tricks for growing Western vegetables. From there, he began full-scale Western vegetable production. Unusual Western vegetables began appearing at the island's farmers' market. It caught the eye of Chef Kentaro Nakayama of the rescape.
His reason for focusing on Western vegetables was that he wanted to grow vegetables that were different from others. In his first year after moving, there were very few farmers on Miyakojima growing Western vegetables.
"At first, of course, I didn't have anywhere to farm. I borrowed land from an acquaintance, but I didn't know if Western vegetables would suit Miyakojima's climate and soil. It was a daily process of trial and error. I was even laughed at by the islanders."
But that's where his frontier spirit shines. Unafraid of failure, he took on the challenge and within about a year, he had figured out the environment and tricks for growing Western vegetables. From there, he began full-scale Western vegetable production. Unusual Western vegetables began appearing at the island's farmers' market. It caught the eye of Chef Kentaro Nakayama of the rescape.
A once-in-a-lifetime encounter
"I wondered why these vegetables were found on Miyakojima. I found Mochizuki through the producers' labels, and approached him. I mainly use his vegetables in our dinners."
Zucchini flowers are stuffed with meat, fennel is used in soup, and vibrant red cabbage is used in salads. Mochizuki's vegetables are served on the hotel menu from the moment they are harvested. Aside from his popular Western vegetables, Mochizuki focuses on growing new vegetables, and has cultivated around 100 varieties to date.
As a result, it's difficult to serve the same thing to every guest, but Nakayama says, "I hope guests enjoy the charm of Western vegetables, which change from day to day."
Which vegetables should be served on which menu? Communication seems to flow smoothly, ensuring guests' enjoyment. I could hear Mochizuki and Nakayama's conversation from afar. The atmosphere was lively, like we were chatting in a cafe.
"Have you tried the 'soft shungiku' the other day?"
"I tried it. It was really delicious. Even though it's shungiku, it wasn't bitter at all. It could be served in a salad."
"Right? It has a refreshing taste."
"Yes, it is."
"Yeah!"
By the way, the chef's favorite vegetable among Mochizuki's is chickpeas. While dried chickpeas are popular, Mochizuki serves fresh chickpeas, which are rarely found in the market. They're said to be incredibly delicious, boasting a stronger umami flavor than edamame.
Zucchini flowers are stuffed with meat, fennel is used in soup, and vibrant red cabbage is used in salads. Mochizuki's vegetables are served on the hotel menu from the moment they are harvested. Aside from his popular Western vegetables, Mochizuki focuses on growing new vegetables, and has cultivated around 100 varieties to date.
As a result, it's difficult to serve the same thing to every guest, but Nakayama says, "I hope guests enjoy the charm of Western vegetables, which change from day to day."
Which vegetables should be served on which menu? Communication seems to flow smoothly, ensuring guests' enjoyment. I could hear Mochizuki and Nakayama's conversation from afar. The atmosphere was lively, like we were chatting in a cafe.
"Have you tried the 'soft shungiku' the other day?"
"I tried it. It was really delicious. Even though it's shungiku, it wasn't bitter at all. It could be served in a salad."
"Right? It has a refreshing taste."
"Yes, it is."
"Yeah!"
By the way, the chef's favorite vegetable among Mochizuki's is chickpeas. While dried chickpeas are popular, Mochizuki serves fresh chickpeas, which are rarely found in the market. They're said to be incredibly delicious, boasting a stronger umami flavor than edamame.
The vegetables Mochizuki has painstakingly cultivated are transformed into vibrant dishes by Nakayama, and the results are stellar.
"I raise these Western vegetables like my own children. Chef Nakayama is like putting makeup on my child, dressing her up, and making her look gorgeous. It's like a bride being given away. When hotel guests eat them and find them beautiful and delicious, it makes me so happy."
"I raise these Western vegetables like my own children. Chef Nakayama is like putting makeup on my child, dressing her up, and making her look gorgeous. It's like a bride being given away. When hotel guests eat them and find them beautiful and delicious, it makes me so happy."
Western Vegetables: A New Attraction for the Island
Mochizuki's Western vegetables are sold not only at the rescape, but also at restaurants and farmers' markets on the island. He acts as an evangelist, spreading their appeal to islanders by providing them with his own recipes to help them enjoy the vegetables.
Chickpeas, in particular, are well-suited to Miyakojima's soil, and are said to have the potential to become a new selling point for Miyakojima. In fact, Mochizuki's work has apparently inspired an increase in chickpea-growing farmers. It may not be long before Western vegetables and chickpeas become Miyakojima's new brand.
Chickpeas, in particular, are well-suited to Miyakojima's soil, and are said to have the potential to become a new selling point for Miyakojima. In fact, Mochizuki's work has apparently inspired an increase in chickpea-growing farmers. It may not be long before Western vegetables and chickpeas become Miyakojima's new brand.