all streets shibuya

A local guide made by walking

Shibuya in a Blur : Life Before Writing

Vol.19 Ban Obara(Writer)

2025.03.31

What does the sentence, “Careering blindly down Omotesando, clutching my fried chicken lunch box,” conjure up in your mind? A teenager dashing down the ultra-fashionable Omotesando, gripping a bento box
that's far from stylish. It’s the kind of cinematic moment that, in reality, writer Ban Obara lived through—one that would later resonate with readers in her essay collection Don't Eat Karaage Bento Here.
For her, Shibuya was a place of blood, sweat and tears.
Her debut self-published book was a huge success,
and now she is being commercially published one after
another. Drawing on her memories of dashing through
her late teens and early twenties—sometimes leisurely,
sometimes with reckless abandon—she took us on a
guided tour of memorable spots.

Bread in Tomigaya,
Gelato in Sangubashi

“My favorite spot? ...... I used to frequent “PATH” in Tomigaya for breakfast. My roommate at the time worked there.”
Author Ban Obara referenced a friend's former
workplace, which is also mentioned in the essay I Want to Live by Baking Bread. It seems her memories of the city are always intertwined with the presence of someone else. "I also love 'FLOTO' in Sangubashi, where a strong sense of community thrives among the local restaurateurs. One woman I met through a mutual friend is now a successful restaurant
manager. My guilty pleasures are pistachio and Beni-hoppe strawberry gelato. The area is home to many charming shops, though rent is high and there aren’t many supermarkets. Living there in my early twenties was a challenge."

Days as a hairdresser spent
prowling Omotesando

Obara-san's first foray into life in Tokyo began when she graduated from high school at the age of 18. She laughs wryly at the fact that, although she was born and raised in Hachioji City, she can't claim to be a true Tokyoite, since it's outside the 23 wards of Tokyo.
“I never grew to love my hometown, and finding work as a hairdresser in Omotesando was my ticket out of there.
I moved into the company dormitory behind PARCO in Shibuya, where I worked every hour god sent surrounded by older colleagues. Have you ever walked down Omotesando in the early morning? You’ll see
people whizzing past on bicycles, most of whom are hairdressers on their morning commute.”
As she settled into her job, Obara became more familiar
with the city. A gap between buildings where she'd slack
o from work and gorge on a deep-fried chicken bento from a convenience store. A restroom in an Aoyama building with the perfect lighting and chairs to take a nap.
And Omotesando as a hunting ground.
“I was doing 'hunts,' where I would approach people on
the street, ask for their permission, and then take them
to the store. At first, I hated it, but eventually, I was taking
a hundred people a month, and before long, I became a
professional hunter. My brain must have been numb.
Even now, when I walk down Kotto Dori, I straighten up.
Sometimes, I even go there on a whim so I don't forget
those early days”

Once a place to bunk owork
is now a valued customer

"Aoyama Book Center Main Store" is another spot that reminds me of those days when I was still wet behind the ears. When I was a hairdresser, I was totally broke and would often go there to cool off or take a break behind the building. It was only after I quit that I was
able to aafford to buy books in large quantities.
Sometimes I buy books just to find the names of my
favorite authors.
In the store, where her books are listed in the annual
literary rankings, and she is invited to events for talks
and signing, there were also private press copies of
Don't Eat Karaage Bento Here gracing the shelves.
"The cover of the sample is curling up... that’s how many
people have picked it up, right? I’m so grateful."

Project your life
onto a warped glass.

With the unexpected success of her self-published book, which had a first printing of only 200 copies, Obara's journey as an author began in earnest. When she stumbled upon her rst commercial publication,
“So Is This What Life Is?” in “CIBONE”, she was so surprised that she almost screamed."
“That made me so happy. In winter, Omotesando is beautifully illuminated, and since CIBONE and HAY TOKYO are there, I visit often. I recently bought some tipsy glasses because their squishy, bent shape reminded me of myself. LOL.”
The trials and tribulations of Obara-san are captured in the pages of her books, written in her lively and engaging style. Beginning with dormitory life in Shibuya, then cohabitation in Sangubashi and Hatagaya. Soba
Ōnoya Motoyoyogi was nearby at the time, becoming the soba restaurant she visited most throughout her life. No matter how personal the event, her words shine with a quiet brilliance, subtly touching the hearts of those who read them.
“I've been told by readers that it's like listening to someone seated behind you in a family restaurant. What I want to capture are the small, mundane moments and signicant events, told in my own way, as much as I can grasp. There are undoubtedly many things I could have written about, simply because I was here in this town at that time.”

Despite being an independent release, Don't Eat Karaage Bento
Here shattered expectations, selling an incredible 10,000
copies and securing a commercial publication

List

1
PATH
1-44-2 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku
☎︎03-6407-0011

A landmark cafe-restaurant in the area, closely associated with Don't Eat Karaage Bento Here. @path_restaurant

2
FLOTO
4-12-6 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
☎︎03-6300-9099

Gelato and baked pastry boutique in Sangubashi. Additive-free pistachios, highly recommended by Obara-san, are the most popular choice thanks to their rich flavor. @floto_gelato

3
Minami-Aoyama 5-chome intersection vicinity
Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

Located on the boundary of Shibuya and Minato wards, Kotto Dori Street stretches toward the southeast. Long ago, it was the main thoroughfare from Shibuya to Roppongi.

4
Aoyama Book Center Main Store
B2F Cosmos Aoyama, 5-53-67 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

The famous bookstore, abbreviated as “ABC". In 2022, Don't Eat Karaage Bento Here topped the annual literary rankings. @aoyamabookcenter

5
CIBONE / HAY TOKYO
B1F GYRE, 5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

A mixed-use space encompassing fashion, interior design, books, plants, music, and more. The orange staircase by Schemata Architects is the centerpiece of the building.

6
Soba Ōnoya Motoyoyogi
3-10, Moto-Yoyogi-cho, Shibuya-ku
☎︎03-3467-7513

This time-honored business was established in 1948, and serves Soba (buckwheat noodles), seasonal dishes, local sake, and wine, all of which are produced in the Shinshu region of Japan. There is also a sister restaurant in Tomigaya. @oonoya_motoyoyogi

Profile

Ban Obara

Born in Tokyo in 1996, Ban Obara is a writer whose witty and distinctive style has garnered widespread attention. In 2022, she self-published her debut work, Don't Eat Karaage Bento Here, which quickly captured the interest of independent bookstores and book lovers, leading to multiple reprints. In November 2024, she released 17 new essays commercially
with Japanese publisher Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha. Her body of work now includes a collection of essays “So Is This What Life Is?” (Yamato Shobo), alongside a series of web articles. She is also preparing to publish her first novel in 2025.

Related Stories

A Day in the Life of a Gyoza Evangelist in Shibuya Ward

Vol.18 Gaku Ogasawara(Gyoza Supremo)

Vol.18 Gaku Ogasawara(Gyoza Supremo)

2025.01.17

Going Deep in
Shibuya’s Hatagaya area

Vol.17 Jun Hirayama(Head of NEUT MEDIA)

Vol.17 Jun Hirayama(Head of NEUT MEDIA)

2024.06.15

Craft drinks from Shibuya and
delicacies refined in the streets.

Vol.16 KanaYabuuchi(Head of KBT)

Vol.16 KanaYabuuchi(Head of KBT)

2024.06.09