Finding Pause in Shibuya for Pores and Pours

Vol.09 Ryoko Iwata(Writer)

2023.01.16

Are you a sauna fan? Long gone are the days of it being a hobby for crusty old men. The sauna boom of recent years is reaching fever pitch, along with the spread of the word "totonou” - that sensation of bliss after a sauna, cold bath and rest. Long lamented by enthusiasts as a sauna wasteland, Shibuya is finally being transformed into a sweltering sauna town, with a succession of renewals and new openings of hot facilities scheduled for 2022. To learn more, we hit the streets with writer Ryoko Iwata, a resident of Shibuya Ward. Eat, drink, work up a sweat...and then sweat some more. Shibuya is a town where you can enjoy the heat even in winter.

Shibuya, a town that
gets under your skin

“I grew up in Nagoya, and always thought of Shibuya as being way too urban for me. When I started living here though, I realized that the ambiance is completely different in each area.”
　So recounts Ryoko Iwata, who has called the ward home for the last 6 years. Strolling around the choice spots is a nice break from writing, which tends to keep her cooped up at home.
“I'm particularly fond of the tranquil Shinsen area. By contrast, the gaudy Dōgenzaka is not my cup of tea. If you see someone pacing down Dōgenzaka faster than anyone else, it's probably me trying to get out, ha ha!”

Eat, drink, and feel global
in Shibuya

“Restaurant-wise, you'll find me most mornings at "World Breakfast Allday Gaienmae '' which serves up plates from all over the world. I also love Yoyogi Park, and the fact that there are so many open spaces in the heart of Tokyo. As long as I have a cup of coffee, I can walk around it endlessly, ha ha.”
Iwata-san’s writing journey began with a book about coffee. This in turn led to a visit to Finland and a second book - a travel guide about the country. No wonder she was so stoked to discover “Hyvää Matkaa!”, a cultural space promoting Scandinavian culture. As it is operated by a travel agency specializing in Scandinavia, the feel and menu are very Finnish. The menu includes shallow-roasted coffee which is the norm in Scandinavia, and cinnamon rolls filled with cardamom that are a real taste of home cooking. There is also a semi-private room in the style of a sauna hut, so you can fully immerse yourself in the Finnish feeling without leaving Shibuya. I've been cooped up at home for a while, so being able to experience the world through a space like this has been a lifesaver.”

A revamped designer
Sauna bathhouse

　And while she went to Finland for the coffee, it was the experience of a sauna there that got her hooked:
“I never thought I could handle a sauna. But then a friend took me along, and I was able to reach this state of equilibrium by getting piping hot and jumping in the cold bath. When I was stressed I found myself going everyday. In Shibuya, I highly recommend "Kairyo-yu," which was remodeled by bathhouse architect Kentaro Imai. It is chic and clean. So first-timers can feel at home. I’d love to see Finnish-style “löyly” saunas where cold water is poured on hot stones and an open-air area introduced in the women's baths, not just the men’s!”

Finnish Saunas in Shibuya

“Shibuya is actually the cradle of Finnish saunas in Japan. But that was 50 years ago, and for a long time Shibuya was regarded by aficionados as a sauna desert. The "Shibuya Saunas," opening in December 2022, will change all that. This is the first sauna comprehensively designed by Katsuki Tanaka, the original author of the "Manga Sadou" series. It's a dream come true to be able to press the reset button in the middle of the city, and is a godsend for the women of Shibuya including myself, haha!”

After a sweaty sauna session, the mind turns to cold beer. At the “Mikkeller Kiosk/Bar'', visitors can quaff a selection of craft beers from Japan and around the world. Mikkeller Japan boss Hamilton carries all sorts of beers other than lagers - which accounts for 99% of beer served in Japan. The curtained-off area at the back is a great place for a crafty pint while making new friends. Sauna improves your quality of sleep, so if you combine that with beer, you’ll be flying with the fairies!

Coffee and a cinnamon roll at "Hyvää Matkaa!."
The mug features the popular Finnish character Moomin.

List

1	WORLD BREAKFAST ALLDAY Gaienmae Shibuya-ku, Jingumae 3-1-23 ☎︎03-3401-0815 Official Web↗ @world_breakfast_allday A café-restaurant with the theme of "discovering the world through breakfast", with new countries and menu items every 2 months.
2	Yoyogi Koen 2-1 Yoyogi-Kamizonocho, Shibuya-ku ☎︎03-3469-6081 Official Web↗ An oasis in the heart of the city, well-loved by Tokyoites. Iwata-san loves to take a stroll with a friend and a cup of coffee in hand.
3	Hyvää Matkaa! Jingumae, Shibuya-ku 5-18-10 ☎︎03-6802-7833 Official Web↗ @finntour_hmc The name comes from the Finnish expression meaning "Have a nice trip!”<br />The company often holds Scandinavian events.
4	Kairyo-yu Higashi, Shibuya-ku 2-19-9 ☎︎03-3400-5782 Official Web↗ A long-established public bathhouse sauna founded in the Taishō era and renovated in 2018 and 2022. Only the men's bath is equipped with löyly and open-air baths.
5	Shibuya SAUNAS 18 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku Official Web↗ @shibuya_saunas Opened on December 23, 2022, this sauna facility features nine sauna rooms and four water baths, making it the apogee of urban saunas.
6	Mikkeller Kiosk/Bar 1-17-1, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku ☎︎03-3400-9612 Official Web↗ @mikkellertokyo The first kiosk business in Japan by Mikkeller, a pioneer in global craft beer culture. Choose from 20 carefully selected varieties on tap.

Profile

Ryoko Iwata

Born in Hyogo Prefecture, raised in Aichi, and currently resides in Shibuya Ward. Author and illustrator. After studying at the University of Colorado Graduate School, she worked at the Consulate-General of Japan in Seattle as a specialized researcher for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. In 2012, she set up a coffee website as a hobby, and three years later made her debut as an author in the United States. Author of many books in Japan including: “Just popping to the Sauna”, “Have a Good Sauna”, “No Coffee, No Life”, “Enjoy! Craft Beer”and “Weekend Finland.”

all streets shibuya

Finding Pause in Shibuya for Pores and Pours

Shibuya, a town that gets under your skin

Eat, drink, and feel global in Shibuya

A revamped designer Sauna bathhouse

Finnish Saunas in Shibuya

Ryoko Iwata

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